Combining DNA Barcoding and Chemical fingerprints to authenticate Lavender raw material

Florian Philippe (1) , Nelly Dubrulle (1) , Benjamin Marteaux (1) , Brice Bonnet (2) , Patrick Choisy (3) , Jean‐yves Berthon (4) , Laurence Garnier (2) , Nadine Leconte (5) , Sandrine Milesi (6) , Pierre‐yves Morvan (7) , Alex Saunois (8) , Jian‐sheng Sun (9) , Sandrine Weber (6) , Nicole Giraud (1)

1 DNA Gensee [Le Bourget du Lac]
2 L'Oréal Recherche - L'Oréal Recherche France
3 LVMH Recherche
4 GREENTECH
5 Nuxe [Boulogne Billancourt]
6 Laboratoires Clarins
7 Codif [Saint-Malo]
8 Sederma [Le Perray-en-Yvelines]
9 STRING - Structure et Instabilité des Génomes

Objective: This study was initiated and conducted by several laboratories, 3 of the main cosmetic ingredient suppliers and 4 brands of cosmetics in France. Its objective is to show the interest and robustness of coupling chemical and genetic analyses in the identification of plant species. In this study, the Lavandula genus was used. Methods: In this study, we used two analytical methods. Chemical analysis from UHPLC (ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography) and genetic analysis from barcoding with genetic markers. Results: Eleven lavender species were selected (botanically authenticated) and analysed. The results show that three chemical compounds (coumaric acid hexoside, ferulic acid hexoside and rosmarinic acid) and three genetic markers (RbcL, trnH-psbA and ITS) are of interest for the differentiation of species of the genus lavandula. Conclusion: The results show that the combination of complementary analytical methods is a relevant system to prove the botanical identification of lavender species. This first study, carried out on a plant of interest for cosmetics, demonstrates the need for authentication using a tool combining genetic and chemical analysis as an advance over traditional investigation methods used alone, in terms of identification and authentication reliability.

Keywords: Barcoding; bioinformatics; chemical analysis; lavender; plant authentication

Domains: Chemical Sciences; Life Sciences [q-bio]

Florian Philippe, Nelly Dubrulle, Benjamin Marteaux, Brice Bonnet, Patrick Choisy, et al.. Combining DNA Barcoding and Chemical fingerprints to authenticate Lavender raw material. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2022, 44 (1), pp.91-102. ⟨10.1111/ics.12757⟩. ⟨mnhn-03879744⟩